Our Bocas del Toro Getaway – 4 Nights on Isla Colon
As we hinted about on Facebook, we finally made time to visit Bocas Town on Isla Colon in the Bocas del Toro archipelago. Making this trip near the end of our OjoBIO Airbnb stay actually minimized future transportation problems getting back to Panama City (I’ll explain later), which is where we are as I write this.
That, and even if we didn’t leave our Airbnb early and just did a return weekend trip, we’d still have to pay lodging costs to stay on the island anyway.
So bottom line, we got to see Isla Colon before we were scheduled to leave Bocas del Toro province, and our return trip to Panama City was MUCH easier.
Win-win.
So what did we do on our Bocas del Toro getaway on Isla Colon? And how did we get there from our remote Airbnb location?
Let’s find out.
Day 1 – Getting to Isla Colon and Getting Oriented
Getting to Bocas Town on Isla Colon from our Bocas del Toro province Airbnb was actually pretty easy. We just chartered the boat owned by OjoBIO, our Airbnb hosts!
By chartering their boat we didn’t have to worry about the uncertainties of whether or not a public bus would have room for our luggage if we took one to Almirante to get a less expensive water taxi (~$10 USD/person).
Remember, we were in a remote location with poor taxi access, and where public buses to Almirante were almost always filled to capacity.
Meaning, there was no guarantee the public buses could fit our stuff!
Our boat was scheduled to leave at around 2 pm because we were sharing the vessel with a small group of Canadians. So we just tidied up our Airbnb, enjoyed a slow morning with coffee, and hung out until it was time to leave.
The cost was more expensive than we would have liked ($30 USD per person), but the ride was smooth and fast (~30 minutes), and we were dropped off in Bocas Town at a dock very close to our Airbnb.
Once we arrived, we walked only 100 meters to our Bocas Town Airbnb and checked in.
Our Airbnb was nothing terribly special, but it was perfect for our needs.
It was located on a property that teaches gardening techniques to school groups, and they rent out several rooms to supplement their income. And the location was in a quiet neighborhood in Bocas Town, away from the touristy areas, but still within easy walking distance of all the action.
We had a big room with a king-sized bed, ceiling fan, and AC unit. We shared a bathroom with other guests, although we had our own designated toilet. Our kitchen was shared as well, although we only really used it for making morning coffee. And the shared shower (with privacy screens) was outdoors with both hot and cold water.
And the owner Benson was really nice! We never asked, but he was definitely from either the USA or Canada. Just a very laid-back and helpful guy who provided very useful local information whenever we asked.
The rent for our 4-night stay was $31.95 USD per night, including Airbnb fees. If you just showed up on the island and hunted around, you could probably have found a private room with spartan accommodations for $25 USD cash, but there may very well have been compromises in other areas (like location).
We were quite happy, all things considered!
Once we were done checking in, we walked around Bocas Town, exploring the streets, restaurant options, and local tour options.
We actually reserved an Island Boat Tour for the next day, which to our ears seemed to have good value. $30 USD per person for 7 hours of ocean exploration!
Through the same company, we also locked in our transportation back to Panama City.
For $40 USD per person, they provide a water taxi to the mainland port of Almirante. From there they provide taxis to the Almirante Bus Station where you pick up a bus that transports you directly to Albrook Bus Station in Panama City.
So getting back to Panama City will actually be 100x more logistically simple (and less stressful) than if we left for Panama City directly from our OjoBIO Airbnb.
After we reserved our tour and Panama City transportation, we got a reasonably priced (for Bocas Town) early dinner at JJ’s at Bocas Blended, a mid-range price restaurant recommended by Benson.
We got a Bloomin’ Onion ($5 USD), Fish and Chips ($10 USD), and Coconut Curry ($11 USD), along with a pitcher of water ($1.50 USD). Decent bang for buck at JJ’s if you are in the mood for something with a more Western flair, but don’t want to pay the more expensive prices for similar food closer to the main tourist areas.
After dinner, we then walked 1 km north of our Airbnb to explore the view along Istmito Beach. It had the potential to be a nice place, were it not for all of the trash that washes up on shore there.
Ocean plastics are a serious problem. About 50% of the beaches we’ve seen during our travels are ruined by them.
Day 2 – Bocas del Toro Archipelago Boat Tour
Our second day in Bocas Town was occupied by the tour we reserved the previous day.
For $30 USD per person, we were scheduled for the following activities:
- Dolphin watching
- Exploring Zapatilla Island #2
- Lunch on the water at Restaurant Jasmin on Isla Bastimentos (we pay for food)
- Coral Reef snorkeling
- Shallow water starfish observations
The tour ran from 10 am to about 5 pm. It was a really, really fun time!
Here are some photo and video highlights!
After our tour was over, we stopped in at a different travel agency location to book an evening new moon boat bioluminescence tour the next day.
At $25 USD per person, it sounded interesting, but we did wonder if it was worth it considering the tour was only scheduled to last a couple of hours.
Day 3 – Isla Carenero Hike and New Moon Bioluminescence Boat Tour
Our new moon bioluminescence boat tour wasn’t scheduled to leave until about 7 pm, so we had the whole day to explore the area.
We took matters into our own hands and decided to take a cheap water taxi to Isla Caranero ($1-$2 USD per person each way), which is within spitting distance of Bocas Town.
From there we walked the 3.2 mile (5.1 km) Carenero coastal trail that followed the shoreline of the island.
The hike was beautiful, but there were a few spots at the farthest end of the island where the trail was a little hard to find. Rhonda is a good tracker though, so we managed fine.
Also, there were several spots (again, in more remote areas), where you were forced to get your feet wet along the shore or walk through mud flats. So wearing sandals or water shoes is a really good idea.
Thankfully we were prepared so there was no problem.
We then headed back to our Airbnb, showered off, grabbed a quick dinner, and headed off to our new moon bioluminescence boat tour at 7 pm.
The tour was to feature the bioluminescent life in the ocean that only emerges around the new moon each month. And we were told that we would be snorkeling in the ocean among the bioluminescent life, as well as getting a boozy beverage during the tour.
Which was good because for $25 USD per person for only a 2-hour tour, there had best be perks!
And when we went out on our boat tour there was indeed bioluminescent life!
When stimulated by a spotlight, bioluminescent jellies, salps, and plankton responded in kind. It was really pretty!
But try as we might with our GoPro knockoff, they didn’t produce enough light to capture on video. Apparently, you need a special lens. 🙁
All this said, the tour was, at best, “meh”.
Unlike other boats giving the same tour that night, our captain didn’t provide snorkeling equipment. So when he let us swim with the bioluminescent life we really couldn’t see clearly underwater.
Also, there were no boozy drinks.
And ours was the only boat that played loud music, which really impacted everyone’s environmental immersion.
Last, most of the people in the boat got bored after about an hour and weren’t interested in swimming. So our tour concluded about 30 minutes early.
Although it was cool to see the bioluminescence that comes out during a new moon, we wouldn’t recommend the tour for the price paid.
Day 4 – Lounging at Starfish Beach
This might have been the best beach experience we have ever had in our lives, and we didn’t go into it expecting much!
Starfish Beach is a major tourist attraction on Isla Colon, but is found on the opposite end of the island from Bocas Town, near Playa Boca del Drago.
As its name implies, Starfish Beach is famous for the presence of Cushion Starfish, although they have been declining in recent years.
Specifically, you take an easy 15-minute trail hike from Playa Boca del Drago until you get there. Note the dashed green line connecting Playa Boca del Toro and Starfish Beach on the above map.
The public bus heading to Playa Boca del Drago (where the trail to Starfish Beach begins) leaves from Simon Bolivar Park in Bocas Town approximately every hour if the bus schedule posted at Bocas del Drago is to be believed.
The fare is only $2.50 USD per person in each direction, and the ride takes about 45 minutes.
We visited on a Friday morning (arrived at about 10:45 am) because we heard the place gets REALLY busy on weekends! And based on the low number of people that were there, it was a really good call.
The trail to Starfish Beach is easy to find. Just follow all of the people who get off the bus with you! They are probably going to the same place.
If that isn’t an option, just continue along the footpath from where the bus drops you off at Playa Boca del Drago. Locals will point you in the right direction, and once you are on the path just follow the signs until you get to Starfish Beach.
With the shade, seating, and amenities available at Starfish Beach, it really was an ideal beach situation for antisocial, lily-white travelers like us!
The temperature was perfect. The water was perfect. The coco locos ($6.50 USD each) were perfect. And the free lounge chairs in the shade for customers buying food/drinks were perfect.
We spend a blissful couple of hours there. But eventually, we headed back to Playa Boca del Drago for lunch and explored that beach as well.
It was also very nice and deserves a look!
But the day was getting on and we wanted to get back to our Airbnb before dinner. However, when we waited at the bus stop for the hourly departure back to Bocas Town, the bus never arrived after 1 hour of waiting!
It turns out that there were protesters in Bocas Town blocking the only road to Playa Boca del Drago over a labor-related dispute, so we were stranded!
Thankfully, a water taxi pulled up next to us to drop off supplies to the locals in the area. We asked him if he would take us back to Bocas Town, and he agreed.
So for $11 per person, he dropped us off at the dock near our Airbnb.
Pricier than the bus, but it sure beats being stranded when you are supposed to be heading back to Panama City the next day!
Day 5 – Getting Back to Panama City
We’ll cover this in detail in our next post!
Closing Thoughts About our Bocas del Toro Getaway
We had a great time at Bocas Town on Isla Colon and were glad we made time to go! It was a touristy place and food prices were a little high. But if you hunted around there were bargains to be had, especially at lunchtime or happy hour!
Not surprisingly, some of our best experiences were the ones we figured out ourselves, with no tour or guide. Although admittedly, the boat tour of the Bocas del Toro archipelago on Day 2 was absolutely fantastic! Strongly recommended.
And obviously, we have lots more to write about.
How did the 12-hour trip back to Panama City go?
Did we like our first WorkAway experience in Panama City?
Did things go sideways when picking up my new USA passport at the US Embassy?
Stay tuned…
Thanks for reading!
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